Devin Bull: Surfed some waist to head high sand bar waves the other day.
The water was only about knee deep. The waves were powerful and hollow, but
the shape was not so great. There were a lot of gnarly close outs but the
waves usually allowed for a pump or two on the face. Needless to say,
surfing those waves was like some kind of full contact sport - especially
considering the amount of contact I had with the wave and the bottom.
Thankfully it was sand bottom so no reef cuts. Devin Bull