Devin the Bull dropping in and about to get shacked.

Quoted from Devin Bull:

“I was sick as a dog this day.  I had just spent two days in bed with the flu, but I knew the conditions were perfect.   So I took my eight year old son with me to this place and he took this photo.  I was the only one out.  I had one awesome session getting barreled on almost every wave and went in and slept on the beach for an hour.  On my second wave of my second session I snapped my board.  It must have been creased diving under a large set because it snapped cleanly in two in the middle of a  bottom turn on a larger wave.    Next time it is that good I’ll take two boards,” said Devin Bull