DEVIN BULL'S CORRODING SURFBOARD

Out of the water feeling like a prune
The body all dry, surfing life in ruin
Lately it feels like all work and no play
Just waking up and working all day
Surfboard sitting around turning into corrosion
Got to get back and get in the ocean
But now I am stuck in the city and buried in the smog
Life's lost its balance in the toxic fog
Back home at the beach and left it all behind
Raised my middle finger to the daily grind

Devin Bull

Devin Bull: Geez, until recently it was flat. No waves for three weeks.
Couldn't wait for the next swell to get wet. Summer sucks when you get a
flat spell. For a surfer with his feet stuck on little it is pretty
torturous. Fortunately we didn't have to wait too long. Got a nice big
swell (at least for here) in that was fun.

Check the last blog post of Devin Bull paddling into a nice summer swell.

Devin Bull was recently sighted doing the following:

- Devin Bull was repairing the surfboard that blew out of his truck and got
smashed.
- Devin Bull was waxing his stick ready for the next swell
- Devin Bull was overhead talking to one of his mates about the upcoming
surf conditions
- Devin Bull was spied upon whilst consulting his tide charts for the best
time to get in the water
- Devin Bull was overhead telling his wife he had butterflies about his surf
mission later that day (Devin Bull had been out of the water too long)

Devin Bull: Surfed some waist to head high sand bar waves the other day.
The water was only about knee deep. The waves were powerful and hollow, but
the shape was not so great. There were a lot of gnarly close outs but the
waves usually allowed for a pump or two on the face. Needless to say,
surfing those waves was like some kind of full contact sport - especially
considering the amount of contact I had with the wave and the bottom.
Thankfully it was sand bottom so no reef cuts. Devin Bull

Devin Bull: Surfing is a healthy, happy diversion in life. It's a quality
activity to relieve stress, get fit and get "stoked."

Devin Bull: How long have you been repairing dings for?
Max: 16 ½ years. Almost as long as I have been surfing.
Devin Bull: Why do you do it?
Max: I started doing it as a grom for my own boards, then my matesÂ' boards.
Now I get paid to do it.
Devin Bull: So, it does pay?
Max: Yeah, I get by. Plus it keeps my head in the game. I like everything
about surfing.
Devin Bull: Thanks Max! IÂ'll drop a couple boards off to you later that
need fixing. I creased the nose on my favorite stick. Anything you can do
about that?
Max: That depends. Bring it by and IÂ'll check it out.

Been scaling down the size of my boards lately. Three years ago I was
riding a 6' 8" or a 6' 10" as my standard short board. I paid little
attention to surfboard design. In the last couple of years I travelled a
lot more and worked with some local shapers. I first got a 6' 6" then a 6'
2" and then a 5' 10". Very interesting! Almost all of the boards are epoxy
quads with a little more width in the nose and thickness in the board (I'm
not light). My 5' 10" is 3" thick. The shorter board are really fun to
ride. Even the 5' 10" handles overhead surf no problem. The new boards
have helped me surf better and have more fun. Devin Bull

It aint taxing when you're waxing
While your amping to go dancing
Just you out in the ocean blue
Inside laughing while you're carving
Buckets of spray blowing away
Board gracefully moves making grooves
Picture created appetite unsatiated
Paddle out to your mate shout
Poetry in motion on the ocean
I'll have another brother

Devin Bull crapping on